Today you walk to the fascinating town of Portomarín. The town, rebuilt in the 1960s on the side of a hill, used to sit below in the valley by the River Miño. When the decision was made to build the dam and reservoir, the government relocated the population to the current town. So basically, everything you see in Portomarín dates from this time except for the main church and a couple of other historic buildings, which were brought up the hill stone by stone and rebuilt.
Portomarín dates back to Roman times, when the first bridge was built over the Miño and there was a small settlement. Its importance has always been linked to its bridge over the river, through medieval times and all the way to ours; the bridge is still part of the main road between Sarria and Portomarín. It’s strategic location and its bridge made it a base for the religious military Order of Santiago that also commissioned the military shaped church in town. As mentioned above, after having survived almost 1800 years, the town was finally destroyed (flooded) to build the dam, and the church and a handful of other historic buildings were rebuilt in the new town up on the hill.
As you reach today’s destination, you’ll cross the Ponte de Miño bridge, which offers some beautiful views of the valley and reservoir. If the water is low, typically in autumn, you may see some remains of the old town.
Upon arrival, one of the first things you will notice about Portomarín is its unique location, the village is situated on the banks of the Miño River. We will see notable landmarks including the Church of San Nicolás y San Juan, which was strategically designed by the local religious militia and authorities with one single nave to appear as a military keep. The west door depicts the Last Judgement, a favorite image amongst medieval sculptors and the Church as this is the door the locals would have come through on their way to Mass.
The central square of Portomarín is a lively gathering place. Full of cafes, restaurants, and shops where you can relax, enjoy local food, and even purchase souvenirs.
