Today we walk from Frómista to Carrión de los Condes. This is our last page of Chapter 2! Today’s walk takes us along. the flat Meseta, to the village of Villalcázar de Sirga, where the magnificent Santa María
Church stands out like a ship at sea. If the church is open, make sure you have a peek inside, the artwork is outstanding. Don’t miss the quaint pilgrim monument in the square facing the church: it’s Instagram material! The statue is actually a homage to Pablo Payo (1919-2003) , Mesonero mayor (senior innkeeper and chef) of the Camino de Santiago and who ran a famous inn that catered to locals and pilgrims.
We then continue following the yellow arrow to the venerable town of Carrión de los Condes, which
for centuries belonged to the Kingdom of León. This town has a quaint old quarter with several sights worth visiting. It is also closely associated to the legend of the medieval Spanish hero El Cid, whom we met briefly in his tomb in the Cathedral of Burgos. Today you will also enjoy your last gourmet picnic lunch until your next Fresco Tours adventure.
The Counts of Carrión in the medieval epic poem of El Mío Cid
As mentioned above, the town of Carrión de los Condes is possibly best know as El Cid’s notorious sons-in-laws were from here. The two counts married El Cid’s daughters, Sol and Elvira, during their campaign in Valencia against the Moors. The poem then tells of how El Cid ridicules the two young men by releasing a lion their presence and watching them hide from the beast. After the siege, the Counts return to Castile with their wives, although harboring deep resentment towards El Cid. Arriving at the oak grove of Corpes (now Castillejo de Robledo), they set up camp to spend the night there. The counts then proceded to abuse their wives, whipping them, and leaving them naked and tied to a tree. They then continued on their way, leaving them abandoned. Don’t worry if this story doesn’t amke much sense, medieval stories are like that.
El Cid eventually hears about this ordeal and swore revenge. The daughters were saved, in case yu were wondering. First, he sought justice from Alfonso VI, who convened Cortes in Toledo, summoning both parties. There, El Cid presented his complaint, demanded his swords, Tizona and Colada, and the dowry he had given to his sons-in-law; once restitution was obtained, he asked the King for the restoration of his honor. The duel to the death was held, and the champions of El Cid defeated and killed the counts of Carrión. After the vengeance was fulfilled, El Cid married his daughters to the Princes of Navarre and Aragon. So there is a happy ending to the story.
After our walk, a rest and a coffee, we return to Burgos, where transportation to your next destination is
readily available, and prepare for our Farewell Dinner.
