After another filling breakfast, we hop on our bikes and cross into the lush region of El Bierzo. This corner of Castile bids us a memorable farewell in the historical town of Villafranca del Bierzo at its western end, where the Romanesque Church of Santiago is located. This architectural gem is one of the many churches dedicated to St. James the Apostle. The church was built in the 12th century and is best known for its Puerta del Perdón, or the Door of Forgiveness, which allows pilgrims who pass through the door to receive the corresponding indulgence and end their pilgrimage to Santiago. However, to do this, you must have medical reasons which inhibit you from continuing your journey.
After a challenging climb, we arrive in O Cebreiro, a small hilltop hamlet known for its thatched-roof houses and narrow streets that reflect its rich Celtic heritage. Don’t forget to get your stamp at the pre-Romanesque Santa María la Real before we begin our descent, which offers breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and valleys.
At the bottom of the hill, we arrive at Triacastela, a small town nestled in a verdant valley surrounded by rolling hills. The village has charming stone houses, narrow streets, and a welcoming atmosphere. The name Triacastela translates loosely to “three castles,” in reference to the three Norman castles said to have existed in the town, although nothing remains of them today. Instead, Celtic castros (bronze-age stone settlements) dot the landscape around the town, the best explanation for the town’s name.
Finally, we reach Samos. The famous Royal Benedictine Monastery of San Julián de Samos welcomes us as we enter the town. There has been monastic life here for 1500 years. Over the centuries, it has been reconstructed and expanded, resulting in a unique architectural blend of Romanesque, Gothic, and Baroque styles.
For pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago, the Monastery of Samos holds a special significance, having traditionally offered hospitality to weary travelers, providing them with food, shelter, and guidance. We end the day at a local restaurant, sampling regional specialties, before settling in for a good night’s rest for the next leg of our journey along the Way.
